NOV 08: All That’s Fit to Fry
by Sally Franz
Southerners are fearless when it comes to frying food. And by ‘frying’ I do not mean a light glazing in an inch of oil in a cast iron skillet; that is considered pan-seared or braising even if the contents wallow for over an hour. Also, as a demarcation, please note that pan frying is usually distinguished by the use of bacon drippings which are kept on the counter left to ripen and re-use over several years, preferably in an old orange juice can. If the label isn’t translucent chances are the fat won’t have enough scrapple type tid-bits for truly tasty cooking. Pan-fried green beans come to mind. The objective of which is to remove all of the color and form before slithering the contents onto a plate.
However, true southern frying or ‘deep’ frying is done in a fry-a-lator. I am talking about huge tubs of bubbling vintage lard where wire baskets hover awaiting their turn to be submerged into the hydrogenated bath. Deep frying includes every one of the four food groups and yet miraculously through the art of re-heating unstable molecules they are all reduced into one and ONLY one food group: fat.
While most of America is acquainted with French fries or chicken, thanks to the KFC Colonel , southerners are apt to ‘chicken-fry’ anything within reach (this is when you dredge the food in a flour and water batter before dropping into the volcano temperature vat). Nothing is too sacred as to not be improved by frying it into a golden puffy brown morsel; be it pig ears, cheese, jalapeños, tomatoes, okra, catfish, livers, storm fence slats, you name it.
Starch courses include hush puppies which are deep fried balls of, well, more deep fried batter with nothing inside them at all except very hot steam. Fritters are similar to hush puppies with the occasional slice of apple, banana or vegetables the aroma of gym shoes. But just when you think you have heard it all, there comes along the king of starchy deep fried foods: batter dipped-French fries.
I suppose every culture has their fried foods: Asian Tempura, Danish Aebelskivers, French Fondue, Scottish Chips and even Massachusetts (a world unto itself) has their fried clams. So enticing is the melting pot of American cuisine that the gourmet crowd has entered this culinary niche with offerings such as battered (in every sense of the word) mahi-mahi cubes, zucchini sticks and ice cream.
Which brings us up to desserts that are fried. Besides the nation-wide (and I do mean wide) craze for State Fair Funnel Cakes sprinkled with enough confectioner’s sugar to make a tan greasy topping the texture of wet concrete, there are other delicacies which go beyond even the bounds of Rachels Ray’s “make-it-out-of-a-box-with-your-sponsor’s-name-on-it” recipes. I am talking about deep-fat (yes the same fat that the corn dogs and fish heads are cooked in) Oreos, Twinkies, and Milkyway bars.
I am guessing, but not too far off the mark, I’d gander to say, that entire Thanksgiving meals will be deep fried somewhere beneath the Mason-Dixon line this year. Whole turkeys, potatoes, beans and if they have figured out how, I am sure entire gelatin molds will soon be facing a death of horror plunged to temperatures that rival the surface of the sun all in the name of our founding fathers. What joy there will be this Holiday Season, and no down-turn of the economy for those around the table where the gall bladder surgeon lives. Yes, the south shall rise again, or is that just acid reflux!
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